Report by Rick Townend
Tuesday 20th April: Pack bags; as well as fiddle, remember to take
autoharp
(and picks) as we are working in some schools; catch bus to Ron's where we
meet Barry, Kelvin and Terry, whose car we all pack into for the trip to
Stansted. Arrive in good time - necessary as there is a mile walk to the
plane. Touch down at Cork Airport on time in heavy rain. Terry and Kelvin
aghast at damage to their brand new Calton cases: complain, but get no
satisfaction except offer of 'gate check' on return (we can carry
instruments to the plane); still, Terry gets a laugh from the story in his
stage chat. We are met by smiling John Nyhan, who has set up the tour.
Collect hire cars from Hertz (another walk in the rain).
To Mallow [NW of Cork], for some publicity, on Seán Donlon's Country Music
programme for 103FM Radio. Terry and I do talking; Sean is a very able and
friendly presenter and, between two songs from the 'Full Circle' Grassroots
CD, he gets a lot of information from us and announces the gigs on the tour.
To Kilworth [N of Fermoy, which is NNE of Cork]; check in at Maire's
friendly B&B and rest awhile before the informal session in the Cotter bar.
This sets the pattern we will grow used to in Ireland: start about 10pm,
play a little, pub provides drinks and sandwiches, play a bit, John
introduces us to some Irish players and singers (some bluegrass, some other
kinds of music, all good), play some more, things get a bit misty, tumble
into bed between two and three am.
Wednesday 21st: Breakfast at civilised hour of 10am. A word here about the
food in Ireland which is pretty uniformly good - fresh, tasty, and generous
helpings; I think we all went home needing to lose a bit of weight. Terry
and I are both on non-wheat diets: we just sit looking longingly at all the
wonderful bread and scones we see everywhere. But the potatoes are very good
indeed.
11.15am - first school gig, at Kilworth Junior (including our hosts'
daughter Sarah). John looks on a bit worried in case we have problems, but
our lesson-plan of a-tune-and-a-song, a bit of history-and-geography, dance,
demonstration of animal noises on the fiddle, and some hands on
participation seems to allay his fears. The teachers are very nice to us and
provide tea and sandwiches.
Next to Midleton [E of Cork] - we lunch in Max's restaurant, where, despite
the signs outside mentioning wine, the only beverages are tea or soft
drinks. We are to stay two nights on the An Stor Hostel. I know from a
previous visit that Irish hostels are good value for money, and a lot better
than basic. We have two rooms - one for the snorers (nameless), one for me,
Terry and Barry. After dining well at the modern-looking but traditionally
furnished Park Hotel, we move on to the Long Point in Whitegate [S of
Midleton]. John has provided the basic PA for us - Barry has brought a few
extra mikes so that we have our usual set-up. Start at ten, play two
one-hour sets and a short one. Audience reaction is good - several people
are into bluegrass; there are also some people from the UK who know Sussex.
Thursday 22nd: We make our own breakfast. Barry remembers there is a
microwave, so prepares bowl of porridge mix, but in the meantime someone
has removed the microwave! Oh well, this is Ireland. Back to Whitegate with
John for our second (and last) school gig. This appears to go well, the
head-teacher at least is pleased, and we finish by playing to some parents
outside. It is sunny, by the way: apart from the first day and the Friday,
we are blessed with nice weather in which to enjoy the wonderful scenery.
For the afternoon Ron and I go round the Jamieson's Distillery - a
fascinating view of how whisky was made, with a chance to taste it at the
end; Ron goes one better and purchases some. Kelvin, Terry and Barry go to
see Ballycotton [on the coast SE of Midleton] and have a lovely time.
In the evening we join John at one of his own gigs; the venue is the Poc ar
Buile [the mad goat] - the title of an Irish song which the children at
Whitegate school sang to us earlier. John includes in his set a lovely Irish
ballad which brings tears to the eyes. We also meet Joe, a singer who (to
make us feel at home) sings a Sussex song and talks about the Copper Family.
A word about John Nyhan. In many ways he is a little larger than life - he
has organised many tours for visiting US artistes, and has a great memory
for names and music - he seems to know just about everyone we meet. He makes
his main living by playing Irish and other music, including some bluegrass,
and is a fine singer and a neat guitarist. He does talk a little fast: at
first we take in about 7 or 8 words in ten, but we get better over the week.
He is very attentive to our needs, and is great at sorting out
practicalities. On the Thursday I buy a children's book to start learning
some Irish, and he is very helpful with the pronunciation.
Friday 23rd: Off west to Baltimore - no, the Irish one. We lunch in the
charming town of Clonakilty, in a little café run by a woman from Berlin. A
frequent talking point on this tour is the newly-introduced ban on smoking
in pubs, restaurants etc.; slightly to our surprise most people are highly
pleased - even smokers such as our hostess here! She tells us it has halved
her cleaning bill. As recommended, we detour to see Lough Hyne, which is
very beautiful and has unusual geological and wildlife features. Kelvin, who
is leading, takes a slightly unusual route, down what looks like an
Appalachian dirt road, but we get there in the end.
We arrive in Baltimore [from my Irish book I think it means 'town of the
black house'] and easily find Declan McCarthy's bar. On entering, Terry
claims his inheritance [his surname is also McCarthy] and Brendan McCarthy
tells him he's welcome to it. We meet Ronny Carthy (long debate about
Carthy/McCarthy clans) who takes us to his superb guest-house where we will
stay. Baltimore is a lovely village, sited above a natural harbour, a
stepping off point for various islands. In McCarthy's bar is an old sign for
the narrow-gauge railway that used to connect the place to Skibbereen; now
the station is used by the sailing school.
We play again from 10 - 1. The audience, possibly they have paid to get in,
are quiet and attentive, and show signs of enjoying the music. Indeed, the
band is coming together nicely now, with tight harmonies and arrangements;
Barry, Kelvin and I are sharing the back-up 'obligato' smoothly with looks
and nods, and I'm remembering where I start and finish things much better.
At the end Declan joins us for 'the Mason's Apron'. Afterwards a session
at
Ronny's (he plays guitar and bass) where we meet Tony, an English banjo
player settled in Baltimore, who sorts out a banjo-lesson with Kelvin in the
morning. Bed 2.30am.
Saturday 24th: A last loving look around Baltimore, then back to Cork, where
old friend Martin Styles has set up an informal session at the Corner House
for us and his band - Martin on banjo, Brendan on mandolin and lovely high
lead vocals, Peter on bass/harmony vocals and Hal on guitar. We also meet
briefly with Orrin Starr, with whom we will share concerts on Sunday and
Monday, but he has to flit quickly to his own gig in Mick Daly's at Dunmore
East.
The session has to be short - we need time to rest and change in Ardmore [in
Co.Waterford, E of Midleton] - so after once round the table with tunes and
songs we say good-bye and head due east. Happily, though the Grass-Roots
Travel Gremlins are out and about (tractors, heavy loads, learner-drivers
etc.) the journey takes less long than we had allowed for: there are some
good dual-carriageway roads in Ireland. Ardmore is a pretty sea-side
village, and Paddy-Mac's is easily found. Paddy-Mac 'himself' is at a
funeral, but Sean lets us into the hostel next door. We patronise the
take-away food-shop, with a few extras from the general store. After a rest
Barry and Kelvin set up the PA, and again we play from 10.30 till about 1am.
The pub is quite noisy, and we can't turn the sound up enough to be heard in
the street outside, which is what the locals tell us is the norm. Paddy Mac
seems pleased however and is very generous with the Guinness.
Sunday 25th: We look at the medieval round-tower in Ardmore, and (small
world) meet an American bluegrass fan, who persuades us to harmonise with
her singing 'Amazing Grace'. We present her with a CD and drive on to
Fethard in Co.Tipperary, just North of Clonmel [NE of Cork]. The scenery is
wonderful, with wild looking mountains, moors, woodland and bog. Fethard
is
horse country, with the Coolmore Stud a big employer; the gossip is of the
Magnier family. It is an old settlement with many medieval remains including
most of its original town wall. We settle in the Gateway B&B before dining
at the very reasonably priced Golf Club where the food is once again
excellent. Ron and Barry both play golf, but sadly on this tour they don't
get to use any of the courses we pass by.
The small Abymill Theatre feels a little damp but is very friendly and has
good facilities and acoustics, so the sound check is soon done. We get to
know Orrin Starr, whom John Nyhan has picked up, and share some jokes;
Grassroots as a band have an endless stream of these, some of which are even
usable on stage. We start the concert, and Terry's light and friendly chat
style gets people laughing and smiling, which enables us to relax into
playing and singing better: a set-list has been produced of the numbers we
feel have gone best in the pub-gigs to date, with a good balance between
slow and driving numbers, covers and self-penned. At half time we go out and
meet the audience and sell some CDs. I talk fiddle tunes with piano-tuner
John Shortall, who is promoting this concert, and who is most attentive to
our needs. We listen to Orrin's set from the side of the stage, and join him
for the last three numbers, arranged beforehand, plus 'Irene Goodnight' as
an encore.
On to a friendly session at (yet another) McCarthy's Bar; most of the
audience seem to have come along, and some turn out to be players and
singers. Kelvin and Ron bring eats from the first actual fish-and-chip
shop
we have encountered. Bed at 2am.
Monday 26th: I take the short stroll recommended by our host Paddy McEvoy,
beside the river, where there are many birds including a heron, and a good
view of the town wall. Then we pack up and move on to Mitchelstown, to shop
for presents for loved-ones, and Fermoy, for lunch. This evening we are
again in Kilworth, but at the Village Arts Centre which is in a converted
Anglican (I think) church. We have difficulty finding the entrance and Terry
enquires next door (a therapy place) where they offer him a body-check, but
he says No, he is after a sound-check. Back to Maire's for tea and
scones-and-cream.
The concert goes well musically as the band, after a week's constant
performance, is cooking nicely; Ron's lead singing is particularly inspired
on 'Bed by the Window'. Things are slightly marred for Terry by a mild
heckle - the first for very many years - wanting more music less chat. At
half time we sell a lot of CDs and many people say No, they like the chat
(does this mean they want less music?). Orrin Starr performs very well
too,
with some brilliant guitar flat-picking and a haunting version of 'Shady
Grove' on the mandolin. He has a nice dry humour style too. Once again we
join him on stage for 'June Apple', 'Little Community Church-house' lead by
Ron, and 'Deep Ellem' sung by Orrin - with Irene Goodnight as encore.
Session afterwards in the Cotter bar with many other nice players and
singers; I try to learn a new Irish tune, but tiredness defeats me. Terry
finishes appropriately with 'a few old memories', and we get to bed at
1.30am.
Tuesday 27th: Rise and shine at 5.45am; the wonderful Maire is also up
early with tea and toast for us. A good journey to the airport, where we ask
to 'gate-check' the instruments and actually get to take them on as hand
luggage. I get a window seat and see the Irish Sea, Wales, the Severn and
middle England. At Stansted the Grassroots Travel Gremlins have blocked off
all exits to our car park sector, and then refuse to accept Terry's card in
the machine so we are stuck for half an hour until he gets the attendant to
accept that he really has pre-booked. Pink Elephant are not the band's
favourite car-park company.
General feelings afterwards? Well, we covered our travel and accommodation,
so that was as good as we wanted. We met some nice people and saw some
lovely places. Musically, it was my first chance to get a good run of gigs
which gave me the chance to integrate properly with the others, who have
been together for years and years and developed the distinct style which
anyone who has heard the band will recognise - smooth arrangements, tight
harmonies worked out carefully, and instrumental work which is thought out
to give each number its own identity. Recently too they have been writing a
lot of original material - recorded on the new 'Original and Genuine' CD. To
this I have brought a certain amount of chaos: for the past fifteen years or
so I have been developing my ability to react on the moment to other
people's singing or playing and my own intuitive impulse. I must say I had
some reservations at the start about how these different approaches would
gel, but we seem to be getting along all right: I have a great respect for
the quality of music they turn out, and am getting to learn the details of
the arrangements - takes me back to my early days in the Echo Mountain Band
- and they have been very concerned to make me feel welcome and get me to
input ideas into the new numbers we are working on together now. Chalk and
Cheese? Come and see us some time and see what you think.